Used boat choices/questions

[Bodofish]

Looking a little more closely at the pics, I'm certain the boat is too far back on the trailer. I would say move it forward till you get 4 to 600 pound tongue weight. I know a scale is pretty tough to come by but get about 2/3rds of it in front of the axel. Get some big wrenches, it aint easy to undo those bolts after a while. lots of penetrating oil......

[Bodofish]

http://boatspecs.iboats.com/Starcraft_M ... p/66b86124, here they say 2000lbs I think it includes the motor. Nada boats had the weight listed as 1600.
Guess I will need to find a scale, to get the truth as trailer is unknown, no stamped numbers where it is supposed to say trailer gross weight, but it can hold 6500lbs so a little beefy for this boat.

Remember, boats only gain weight, they never loose weight. if the floor is soft in a few places, it's full of water. If it has any foam, it's totally water logged and weighs a ton! New floors are easy to make, some good exterior 3/4 inch ply , a couple coats of resin and some new vinyl and good to go. Foam, just rip that crap out and add some different flotation that won't hold water if you want. The foam rule is only for manufactures.

[4n6fisher]

Floors are coming up this week/weekend and getting replaced. What type of resin is recommended for coating that? If I am coating it should I just go with exterior instead of marine grade? Something that a good anti-skid will stick to.

I was looking at moving the winch forward, but was not sure about the procedure. I will take a few pics to see if someone has a good idea.

[hewesfisher]

The best advice given is to weigh the package as it sits, only way you'll know for sure. Everything else is just a guess. Is this boat an I/O or outboard?

I agree the boat looks to be too far back on the trailer and, if so, is a prime contributor to trailering issues. Heed the advice on stopping, it's a serious concern. Just because a vehicle is rated for 3500lbs towing doesn't mean it's a safe condition. Always wise to stay under the max capacity, ideally you want to be 50% - 70% of max rated capacity for a safe margin.

Surge brakes have been mentioned but I don't see where you've indicated your trailer has them. If not, 100% of your braking is provided by your tow vehicle. One other thing to keep in mind, max rated tow capacity is based on driver only, full fuel on tow vehicle, and no cargo. Everything you add to your tow vehicle, like the fiberglass canopy, reduces towing capacity. Also, don't fail to consider the "sail effect" of your truck canopy, the boat (has high sides), AND the camper back. All will affect your tow experience in a negative manner.

Of course, it should go without saying the max rated tow capacity is based on your tow vehicles systems being maintained in good condition. Your brakes should be new or nearly so and hopefully your clutch is too. Same thought should apply to condition of your u-joints and axle bearings.

Not pointing this out to be negative, just to make sure you see the big picture.

I tow our 20' Hewescraft with an '04 Ford Ranger SuperCab 4x4, 4.0, 5spd auto, 4.11 limited slip, with max rated rated tow capacity of 5500lbs. Boat, trailer, gear, fuel, etc. on the scale weighs right at 3300lbs. That puts me right at 60% of max capacity and I would not want to tow much more than and my trailer has surge brakes.

Think safety first.

[Bodofish]

Floors are coming up this week/weekend and getting replaced. What type of resin is recommended for coating that? If I am coating it should I just go with exterior instead of marine grade? Something that a good anti-skid will stick to.

I was looking at moving the winch forward, but was not sure about the procedure. I will take a few pics to see if someone has a good idea.

West System Epoxy, it's a little expensive but I would use exterior with Epoxy over spending the really big dollars on marine ply and then spending the money on Epoxy too. Put on a thinned coat and then no more than 24hr later put on a full think coat. Turn them over and do the other side. After they're sealed you can put what ever you want on them. Vinyl or you could do floor paint with non skid or even bed liner for trucks. So many options.

For the bow stanchion, just loosen the winch from the bow eye, support the bow if needed and loosen the big u-bolts holding it to the frame and move it forward. Then after tightening it you can winch the boat back up tight. Then check the rollers or bunks and see if they need to be moved forward too. Probably have to take the boat off for that.

[Hunter757]

Floors are coming up this week/weekend and getting replaced. What type of resin is recommended for coating that? If I am coating it should I just go with exterior instead of marine grade? Something that a good anti-skid will stick to.

I was looking at moving the winch forward, but was not sure about the procedure. I will take a few pics to see if someone has a good idea.

You will need to show the frame where the stand is mounted and all point's it attaches to. Also pictures of the rear rollers would be nice. Talk is cheap..your the guy risking his boat rolling of the other end or forward. The best way is to remove the boat then move the stand where you want it. 3 - 5 inches should be all you need. Spray the bolts and nuts down now with oil and let the sit for a few days prior to trying to remove them.

[Larry3215]

Marine grade ply will last a lot longer than exterior ply. It uses different glue and is more mold/mildew resistant and more rot resistant.

Which you choose depends on how long you plan to keep the boat, if its stored outside or in a garage, if the storage area is moisture controlled, and lots of other things.

Exterior ply, well sealed should last several years if it is protected. To be well sealed you must also include all edges and cuts and any holes drilled in it for mounting screws, bolts, electrical cutouts, etc. The down side to sealed wood is that any moisture that does get inside cant dry out easily and thats what leads to rot.

[Bodofish]

Marine grade ply will last a lot longer than exterior ply. It uses different glue and is more mold/mildew resistant and more rot resistant.

Which you choose depends on how long you plan to keep the boat, if its stored outside or in a garage, if the storage area is moisture controlled, and lots of other things.

Exterior ply, well sealed should last several years if it is protected. To be well sealed you must also include all edges and cuts and any holes drilled in it for mounting screws, bolts, electrical cutouts, etc. The down side to sealed wood is that any moisture that does get inside cant dry out easily and thats what leads to rot.

Not really, they both uses the same glue unless you've found a source for really crappy plywood, the only difference is there're no voids in marine ply and it's almost if not impossible to get it in doug fir, it's all mahogany now and you pay through the..... for it. If you encapsulate exterior with epoxy, it's just fine and I'm sure it would outlast any boat you put it in. If marine ply is compromised by putting a hole in it, it will rot just like anything else. About 10 years ago I found a boat I built using nothing but exterior ply and sealing it with epoxy, the only place there was any glass was the seams. The boat was stolen shortly after I finished it and I hadn't seen it for 30 years. When I ran a crossed it boating on Lake Union I was astounded. The fellow rowing the boat was it's forth or so owner. It's tough to miss a 17' rowing dory and you know one of your children when you see them. So I'm pretty sure exterior would out live the StarCraft if properly treated. And yes you do need to fill any voids in the edges and make sure it's all sealed up. In fact I'd be willing to bet most of the aluminum boats out there don't have marine ply floors. Easy enough to tell, look at the back side and if it's not mahogany it's not marine.
The only alternative to wood is composites or aluminum, both are going to be a lot more expensive.

[Larry3215]

Dang! I hate it when preconceived notions (of mine) get blown out of the water! On the other hand, good to learn

Voids are bad though and these days, they use a ton of crappy junk to fill voids on even the nicer grades of ply - so pick carefully.. They also use thinner ply's and more of them on marine grade which makes it stronger.

[4n6fisher]

Thanks for all the tips, I will look into both types of ply and make a decision. It is a 1969 so its not like I need it to be good forever, but I hate doing any type of substandard work, so I will balance cost with quality.

I think I determined it should not be too big of a deal to move the winch stand forward a few inches, I think I can move it so it straddles the joint, see pic and let me know if I am off base. I will have to move the rollers as one is already off the back of the boat (but that might help keep it from rolling off if I loosen the winch strap).
The boat is an I/O and the trailer does not have any type of braking system so it is all the truck at this point. It really was not much more to stop when I have the little 13' shasta (1300 lbs) packed up with all our camping gear for a few days. I realize that the boat was empty and if I really want to load it up I will be towing a load that is too much for the little truck.

current winch location

Back roller already off the boat

I appreciate everyone's opinions and advice.

[Larry3215]

Those rear rollers need to be positioned correctly so that the hull is supported better/properly. Thats important, so do that for sure - but - its probably been that way a long time, so any damage is already done most likely.

You will probably find its much easier - and much safer - to launch the boat to move the rollers. Have spare parts ready. Some of those roller bolts and pieces may not come off in one piece and you cannot load the boat without those rear rollers.

Moving the winch post looks relatively easy and your plan should work fine. Dont be surprised if you need some new bolts. Id plan on new lock nuts at a minimum.

Thats unfortunate about no surge brakes. You can add a surge coupler and stainless disc breaks but you might have to replace the axle as well. Not too bad a project if the axle will work with the new breaks.

[rseas]

I'm late to the party and I hate to add fuel to this fire; but based on the picture it looks as though the boat is positioned correctly on the trailer. The aft rollers are aready at the very aft surface of the hull. If you move the boat forward or aft on the trailer you may permently damage the hull. I am not an expert but based on the picture if you need to change the tongue loading it looks like the axle will need to be moved forward or aft as required.

[Bodofish]

Couple things, and it's not the happies news, the trailer is not big enough for the boat and for a combo of that size, I'm pretty sure brakes are required, that said, you should be extra careful, maybe a craigs list trailer in the future. As for rollers, Aluminum boats should never rest on rollers, they make little dents in the bottom of the boat where they contact, just from bouncing down the road. Bunks are easy but since you really need a different trailer anyways.... Moving the bit forward should help, winch looks easy and if you have some jack stands and blocks you could lift the boat off the trailer and move the rollers.


RCW 46.37.340
Braking equipment required.
Every motor vehicle, trailer,<snip> shall not leave the vehicle without operative brakes.
(3) Brakes on all wheels. Every vehicle shall be equipped with brakes acting on all wheels except:
(a) Trailers, cargo extensions, semitrailers, or pole trailers of a gross weight not exceeding three thousand pounds, provided that:
(i) The total weight on and including the wheels of the trailer or trailers or cargo extension shall not exceed forty percent of the gross weight of the towing vehicle when connected to the trailer or trailers; and
(ii) The combination of vehicles consisting of the towing vehicle and its total towed load, is capable of complying with the performance requirements of RCW 46.37.351;
(b) Trailers, semitrailers, or pole trailers manufactured and assembled prior to July 1, 1965, shall not be required to be equipped with brakes when the total weight on and including the wheels of the trailer or trailers does not exceed two thousand pounds;

[4n6fisher]

Rseas, fuel that fire all input appreciated. I had a similar thought that bunks might be better than the rollers as they create a point load.

Bodofish, I am thinking a different trailer would be best since this one is a rusted piece of ..., so I do not want to sink much time or money into it.
I will concentrate on getting the boat water ready since I will not need to move it for a while, then I can decide on a trailer.
The other thing about this trailer is there is no license plate, registration or title, so that would be a chunk of change just getting all that straightened out. I see a scrap yard in its future, unless someone wants to give me any money for it!

Thanks all.

[Bodofish]

I'm late to the party and I hate to add fuel to this fire; but based on the picture it looks as though the boat is positioned correctly on the trailer. The aft rollers are aready at the very aft surface of the hull. If you move the boat forward or aft on the trailer you may permently damage the hull. I am not an expert but based on the picture if you need to change the tongue loading it looks like the axle will need to be moved forward or aft as required.

Moving the axel back may be the easiest way to fix the balance issue.

[4n6fisher]

I will see how rusty and crusty that connection is, still might need brakes, but a bigger truck might get me to pass the RCW requirements.

[Bodofish]

Rseas, fuel that fire all input appreciated. I had a similar thought that bunks might be better than the rollers as they create a point load.

Bodofish, I am thinking a different trailer would be best since this one is a rusted piece of ..., so I do not want to sink much time or money into it.
I will concentrate on getting the boat water ready since I will not need to move it for a while, then I can decide on a trailer.
The other thing about this trailer is there is no license plate, registration or title, so that would be a chunk of change just getting all that straightened out. I see a scrap yard in its future, unless someone wants to give me any money for it!

Thanks all.

Totally understood! I'm in the process of getting a Drift Boat trailer from OR licensed and the SP inspections are always out about 3 weeks. Then you have to prove the trailer isn't stolen for the DOL. I'll probably be just getting a registration and license for it then in three years they will issue a title.
So for moving the boat about if you don't want to risk a ticket you can always buy a trip permit for the tune of 30 bucks per trip.

[Larry3215]

Im betting your boat/trailer gross weight is too hi and you will need surge brakes. Plus the trailer combo is almost ceetainly more than 40% of the truck weight - even a bigger truck.

A Ford F250 weighs around 6000. That boat trailer has to weigh over 3000, so you need surge brakes no matter what.

I agree - a new trailer would be the best way to go - bunks for sure.

[Hunter757]

4n6fisher, I think you are correct get a newer trailer that will carry your boat the correct way with bunks. Most of the boats I looked at online are running duel axle trailers with your boat. There are a few on CL for sale that should fit your boat some that need work for a better price. Be sure to get what you need the first time. For now I would just move the rear rollers on yours 8-12" forward and call it good and use it for very very short trips only till you can afford a new to you trailer.

Not saying you can't move the stand or axle on your now but not sure it's worth the time if you can find something of a better fit for you. Renting a truck now for your trips is a very good idea. Good luck hope you find something that works.

[4n6fisher]

I wont be moving the boat anytime real soon so I can ponder my trailer decisions and keep my eyes out for the right one. I also saw that most other vessels similar to this had a double axle. I kind of thought this one did too, but not when we showed up, but I was looking at so many I may have just confused myself.
First items I am redoing are the fuel lines, filter, fuel pump, cap rotor, plugs, etc., along with the floor so there is some work before I hit the water.