Northwest Fishing Reports

hi, i just got a 18' smokercraft sled the people who had it before me rattle canned it.. i was wondering if i have to sand all the way to the metal to re paint it or just get the spray paint off ruff it up and recoat it anything would help. i really dont want to have to take it all the way down if i dont have to........

trout slayer wrote:hi, i just got a 18' smokercraft sled the people who had it before me rattle canned it.. i was wondering if i have to sand all the way to the metal to re paint it or just get the spray paint off ruff it up and recoat it anything would help. i really dont want to have to take it all the way down if i dont have to........

Well, to be honest with you, if it needed painting in the first place, than it probably should have been taken all of the way down.

You could just sand down the rough spots, but I'd suggest a bead blast to bare metal, than a good primer, followed by a good Marine Epoxy. But, this is just my opinion.

thats what i was affraid of thamks for the reply

Is the previous coat sticking? Has ANY of it flaked off or is it all adhering well? If the paint is stuck down to the metal, AND its in good shape, AND you do a good job of lightly sanding it in prep work (just enough tooth for the paint, not too smooth or down past the paint into the metal), AND you clean it thoroughly before you paint, Its extremely common for boats to just put paint on paint.

If the previous paint is stuck down well, it basically becomes the primer for the new paint. I am a bit low-budget on certain things, and this is a prime opportunity to paint her up without costing yourself money doing a huge amount of bead blasting, disassembly/reassembly, etc etc. If you are concerned about it, use a less-expensive paint to be sure it will work. You will be out less than $100 if it flakes, and you will give yourself at least another season before you do all the big work. Best case, it sticks just fine, and you saved a mint.

If you are looking for the perfect coating, then Anglin gave you the ideal, no-cost-concerns answer.

E

See the painting an old aluminum boat thread. painting aluminum is not as easy as it would appear.
as my pea brain whirls about I almost forgot about powder coating, a very good option for small aluminum boats. Stll needs the correct prep and time frame.

Gisteppo wrote:Is the previous coat sticking? Has ANY of it flaked off or is it all adhering well? If the paint is stuck down to the metal, AND its in good shape, AND you do a good job of lightly sanding it in prep work (just enough tooth for the paint, not too smooth or down past the paint into the metal), AND you clean it thoroughly before you paint, Its extremely common for boats to just put paint on paint.

If the previous paint is stuck down well, it basically becomes the primer for the new paint. I am a bit low-budget on certain things, and this is a prime opportunity to paint her up without costing yourself money doing a huge amount of bead blasting, disassembly/reassembly, etc etc. If you are concerned about it, use a less-expensive paint to be sure it will work. You will be out less than $100 if it flakes, and you will give yourself at least another season before you do all the big work. Best case, it sticks just fine, and you saved a mint.

If you are looking for the perfect coating, then Anglin gave you the ideal, no-cost-concerns answer.

E

SWEET i think thats what i will do. I just pressure washed it. all the spray paint came off easy now its old light green 'nice'. the old paint is in decent shape, would i still want to use an etching primer before i recoat it powder coat would be nice, a little to expensive on an old 18 foot sled thanks

trout slayer wrote:the old paint is in decent shape, would i still want to use an etching primer before i recoat it

NO! Etch primer is for bare metal, whether steel or aluminum. If you keep the old paint on the boat, you should scuff it before applying your new topcoat. Since your topcoat selection/brand is an unknown element, I can't advise what the proper grit would be for scuffing the old finish. At a minimum, I think some gray Scotchbrite would do the job, but it would be better to follow any directions or tech info supplied with your topcoat product.